Buon Giorno Baby – as of this post we have done the French Riviera and the western coast line of Italy – in grand fashion I might add!
Dateline – Approaching Sicily from the North, heading west and rounding the boot of Italy later today. Reporting from the spacious veranda of suite 6116 – 6th deck starboard side mid-ship. Current local time is 8:33 am or 12:33 am central in the States. This is the 9th day in the 6th month in the year of our Lord 2009. Your reporter – Steve “Scoop” Tomson. Please forgive me for any misspellings – I don’t have the energy to go back and spell check non-English words.
I’m going to attempt to share with those of you that have the slightest interest in the travels of Tracy and me some story lines of our adventures since leaving Barcelona. You’ll not offend me in the least if your common response is “who cares and why are those two so self absorbed”.
June 3 – we board the Celebrity cruise liner Summit in Barcelona. Easy check in for those of us in the suites and a nice offer for an invitation only dining experience in their premiere restaurant (for which we’d booked dinner on the 9th for an extra fee and which we’ve now canceled avoiding the additional cost). Dinner was wonderful and a nice launch to the cruise.
This is a good time to mention the staff – hard working, friendly, responsive and generous folks all. Those with whom we come in contact with recognize they are here to serve us and have demonstrated that with their actions – not a single troublesome interaction and in fact, each interaction is pleasant. Butler, maid, waiter, his second, wine steward, pool attendants, casino dealers, bartenders – all good. On first name bases with many, and like Barcelona, I must have a “free drinks” sign on my back because Jorge of Cancun in one of the lounges decided he was going to put me on the 2 for 1 Scotch special whenever his bar manager is not around. I love George…Tracy doesn’t seem to share the same compassion for him.
Day 2 on Summit – June 4 – full day at sea to get to Villafrance, French Riviera – nestled between Nice on its west and Monaco (Monte Carlo) on its east. Spent day poolside and acclimating our self to the boat. Relationship between George and I grows stronger.
Our dinner is in the primary dining room in the stern of the boat. Our table for 2 is situated 15 feet from the captain’s table where he is hosting dignitaries. Behind him are floor to ceiling windows looking aft towards the boat’s wake – lovely.
Day 3 on Summit – June 5 – arrive into Villafrance at 7 am. Tracy and I agree that we want to freelance as much as possible – we are avoiding guided tours and that fact that I’m generating this now demonstrates we’ve survived. However we’ve done so putting our missing of the boat’s departure in jeopardy three times now. If not for this reporter’s butchered use of his broken French, Italian and inappropriately at times slipping in a bit of Spanish, we might currently be working in a labor camp outside Orvieto, Italy. After room service provided by our butler Alex, we disembark from the boat via small boat shuttles at 8 am with three locations in mind – Monaco, Eze and Nice.
We catch the train east bound to Monaco and arrive in roughly 20 minutes. Magnificent port city where our first stop was to stroll to a café roughly 200 feet overlooking the port, city and the Prince’s home across the way upon the hillside. We hit the Monte Carlo casino early – not open to the public at that time, walked around the yachts docked in port, saw the disassembling of grandstands and bleachers from the Gran Prix of Monaco that was run a couple of weeks ago, then witnessed the changing of the guard at Prince Rainer’s castle (I believe he’s still the Prince of Monaco)
. Boarded train west to Eze.
Upon arrival at the stop for Eze, which is a cliff top village, mid-evil period, I spoke with tourists that had just arrived from on top. They did point out that between bus schedules, time spent up there and our available train options that visiting my consume 2 to 3 hours. This was time we felt better suited for Nice so we moved on west word.
Nice – we enjoyed a late lunch along the Mediterranean shore, people watched and savored each other’s company. We strolled north east through a prominent promenade full with fountains and activity. Our destination was Old Town where I stayed to enjoy beers while Tracy went shopping. Our designated time of reconnection was 4:00 pm which translates to somewhere between 4:15 pm and 4:30 pm for Tracy – not good. We headed for the train station with the need to be back out our boat transports no later than 6. We’ve been instructed that if we are not there by 6 we can take a beautiful photo of the boat as it pulls away without us. Nice’s train station was the largest of those visited earlier and much more confusing. We found ourselves desperate to find the train destined for Villafrance. We could also see the confusion reflected in the faces of 4 other couples (Tracy noticed a Celebrity Cruise Line bag in the hands of one of the men) several platforms over. I scurried over to them to join forces. After several conversations with locals and not so helpful attendants we awaited what be believed to be our last hope. Train arrives, we board and we unload at Villafrance – board transport with 10 minutes to spare. Problem avoided.
We leave port on time, 64 years and 364 days following the Allied forces’ D-Day invasion at Normandy liberating the French from German control.
It was our first fully formal night on the boat so I donned my tuxedo and Tracy looked smashing in her outfit. We are damn gorgeous people – no wonder our kids are so beautiful.
Day 4 – June 6 – our port of call is Livorna to disembark to Florence (Firenze) the centerpiece of the Renaissance movement. This was home to Michelangleo, da Vinci, Donatello, Giotto and countless others. We’d made arrangements for a bus transport (1 hour 15 minutes) through the cruise line to transfer us to Florence with other shipmates that would drop us off to explore Florence on our own. And explore we did.
Upon leaving the bus we visited Santa Croce piazza (plaza) moving we check in for our entry to Galleria degli Uffizi – perhaps one of the finest museums in all of Italy. The Piazza della Signoria is stunning with a church (basilica) phenomenal statues including a David copy and originals from hundreds of years ago. The people strolling around were entertaining including the first of many wedding parties we’ve witnessed while being here. Uffizi had much to offer but some of the highlights included paintings by Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo. We stopped by Ponte (bridge) Vecchio over the river Arno – 700 years ago where shops reside. Tracy shopped and I enjoyed a beer or two.
Then it was north to Battistero and Duomo – needless to show we are stunned by the architecture, attention to detail, the magnificence of the structures and engineering it took to create these works of beauty. We contemplated the 414 steps to the top of the campanile of the Doumo, but again felt our time (and my knees and energy) may be spent better elsewhere.
We traveled further north to Galleria dell Academia – the home of Michelangelo’s David. Seen by many as the most perfect sculpture of all time. David, slayer of Goliath, stands lean, with his weapon of choice, his sling over his left shoulder and draped across his back. It was embarrassing for me when so many patrons pointed to me and noticed the majestic similarities in David’s form and mine. It was also embarrassing when I was told – “no photograpia!” - Sidebar – I filmed in spite of the repressive actions of the Mussolini fascist museum guards. The Allieds win again! We did a leisurely stroll back to the Piazza Santa Croce to meet our group and catch the quiet bus back to the ship. Stopped by to say high to Jorge in the Rendezvous Lounge – 2 for 1 special still on for the big man.
Quite evening, nice meal, after dinner cocktails, music in the lounge. I did try to recreate David’s pose in our suite after showering – our mirrors must be warped. Placed a call to maintenance.
Life is good.
Day 5 – June 7 – arrived into port at Civitavecchia – the port city that is northwest of Rome (Roma) roughly 1 hour by train. We’d prearranged a private train available only for guests of the cruise – sweet way to roll.
It should be noted that today is Sunday and therefore, we knew in advance that the Sistine Chapel is not open to the public. We recognize that is a miss and are disappointed. HOWEVER, on the train ride our guide mentions that Pope Benedict will be addressing the masses in the Piazza San Pietro at noon – yeah, that Pope.
We tour the Basilica Di San Pietro in the Vatican – simply put, unbelievable. We took a moment on this Sabbath to pray in a prayer room in this magnificent church. La Pieta, Michelangelo’s sculpture of the Virgin Mary and Christ following his crucifixion that he did at age 24 is there. Sculptures, paintings, inlaid work - Every detail is awe inspiring. We visited the catacombs of the Popes. Amazing tombs including Pope John Paul II adorned with flowers and viewed by passionate followers.
At noon we were back in the square when minutes later Pope Benedict addressed the crowd in Italian, English and Spanish. He even extended a welcome to pilgrims from Texas – we don’t believe he was referring specifically to Tracy and me. We’d now consumed 2 hours of our 7 hours in Rome so moving on was in order.
Our walking moved eastward to the Castel Sant’ Angelo – 1500 years old on the Tiber river. From there we head further east over the river to see the Trevi Fountain and Palazzo della Stamperia. South down through the shopping district on Via Del Corso to the Pantheon and its open air dome. Mind numbing in the Piazza della Minena. Now carrying on south east to center pieces of Roman life originating over 2000 years ago. We arrive at the Roman Forum – the foundation of Roman social life, political and spiritual life dating back before the time of Christ. Stunning. Then the entertainment center represented by the Coliseum (Colosseo) and where we circled the monstrosity via the Piazza del Colosseo.
Our day was full indeed taking in countless other sites and experiences with miles of walking, viewing and absorbing. Breathtaking. But now we needed to traverse west to our train station.
Based upon the map I was using we didn’t seem to be making the progress I might have imagined. So I stubbornly inquired with a taxi and booked a ride – Tracy’s comment was that I had redeemed myself.
We chose lunch in a park just a “10 minute walk” to the station with roughly 1 ½ hours before departure. We enjoyed a leisurely meal with drinks, strolled to take more photos from this hillside area and witnessed another wedding party. 30 minutes to spare for our 10 minute walk. However, as we headed back, Tracy and I seemed to disagree on which route to take, I suggested the one provided by the cab driver yet she viewed as too dangerous. So we walked briskly through the park. Much like breathing and the Italian atmosphere, walking briskly makes me sweat profusely. After several minutes I felt as if we’d made a serious mistake. I spoke with several within the park who redirected us back to our entry way and down the “dangerous” road. After much scowling and silence between Tracy and I we arrived with 2 minutes to spare. Ain’t love grand.
Needless to say we were exhausted after as full a day as I can remember in one of the truly great and powerful cities of our human history. I ate it up and walked away thrilled.
We dined casually this evening, in an outdoor restaurant looking out over the stern of the boat. We visited the casino for a couple of hours feeling little pain in our wallets and our bodies. Comfortable and complete was how the day ended.
Day 6 – June 8 – arrive into port in Naples.
Naples is a city that as reported to us by previous travelers has little to offer. Our pretrip research had suggested Pompeii and Capri – so again we were off to start our day. We left the boat with a mile or so to the train station. Gritty, traffic filled, more impoverished than other areas we’d visited. But as always, those with whom I spoke with pleasant, helpful and with my broken Italian and blended English we still ultimately understood and communicated well.
As luck would have it we reached the train station just in time for me to literally dart on the departing Pompeii bound train as the last passenger, saving us 30 minutes or more of wait time.
Pompeii is amazing. Seeing Mount Vesuvio just north of Pompeii and trying to imagine the instance death to 2,000 of the city’s 20,000 inhabitants. The town was buried in 20 feet of ash that has preserved the structures and some of the frescos for 1,930 years. The housing, inner city road system, amphitheater, gladiator arena are incredible.
After nearly 2 hours here we journeyed by train to Sorrento – a lovely coastal town where we only strolled through. It was here that we caught the jet boat then 20 minutes later arrived at the fantasy island of Capri for lunch and light shopping. We needed to be back at the ship by 6:45 and we’d arrived on Capri at 3 pm. I told Tracy I’d allow her request of a 5:00 departure with the understanding that this is the last departing jet boat to Naples and it is a 50 minute trip. We understood the rules. Meet me at the café no later than 4:30. She’s evidently started paying attention and arrived at 4:29 – a new Olympic record for my bride of 25 years plus.
The ticket agent twice told me we’d be leaving from dock 3 – no confusion whatsoever. No destination signs are posted at the dock’s as you would find on a train platform. But as our 5:05 departure time neared, still no boat was at our dock. Yet dock 5 was filling up fast. At 4:57 I asked a local tour director and then a dock steward if my ticket applied to the dock 5 boat – Si they said and suggested I move swiftly. Tracy and I darted for the boat to be only a handful of the last passengers on board. Again, tragedy diverted.
So that now brings me to our current location –
Day 7 on the Summit – June 9.
We will be spending the entire day on the ship sailing around the southern coast to Italy and on to Santorini, Greece. We arrive that at 7 am tomorrow morning.
Today will involve poolside lounging, finishing my book on a history of western civilization, spending quality time with George and our second formal dinner of the cruise. I’ll be sporting a suit and a dashing new Italian tie Tracy purchased for me in Florence.
So until tomorrow – arrivederci.
When we have an opportunity I will attempt to email relevant photos instead of attaching to this blog.
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